Day 6 - Estella - Sunday, 26 April 2009

Puente la Reina -> Estella = 22.4K (656.6K to go!)

I slog through thick mud as I climb up a steep hill, only to face another muddy challenge.

As I walk, I make mental lists of all the things I am grateful for. I sing all the inspiring Christian Science hymns and reflect on all the healing truths I've learned.

The rain is intermittent, the day is cold. And my knee aches. I struggle to keep up with my delightful walking companions.

I remain cheerful and pleasant. I absorb the beautiful countryside around me and stay engaged, but it is a struggle today.

This is a character-building experience. A spiritual being having a very physical experience.

I walk on the dirt path past vineyards, olive trees, and fresh green grains springing up to the sky. There are fields of asparagus. I pass through the medieval village of Ciruqui. The name makes me laugh a nervous laugh - in Basque it means "nest of vipers". The paths are actually covered with large black slugs and many snails. I am grateful to find no real vipers along the path.

I continue soldiering on past cypress trees that flank a 2,000 year old Roman bridge. I recall reading a horror-story extracted from an old pilgrims guide that tells of some French pilgrims who met their death and lost their horses in a violent incident when some wicked Navarese men tricked them. Blood and gore - not a happy tale.

Later in the day, I give my 2 young friends "permission" to simply move on. I walk on alone. I walk very slowly down the steps, over the wooden bridge and down the long last slope into Estella. My knee hurts. I weep a bit. I feel old and broken. I weep as I walk down the mountain.

At the albergue in Estella, I am grateful to find a bed and I am grateful to find a pair of English-speaking angels who share a pilgrim meal with me. My spirits lift over a meal and conversation. The 3 of us share common histories of military careers and working with students (13-18) in leadership and development programs. We sip wine and I almost forget my aching knee.

The sun comes out on the walk back to the albergue.

I am grateful that tomorrow will be another day.

The Old Bag's Sleeping Bag...

Yes the poppy-red Altus rain gear arrived and I have taken it out on one walking adventure. I think I will be quite happy with my cheerful purchase. Later I will post the hunchback photos (I become "Ginnimodo when I wear the pack under the ponch!).

Let it rain, let it rain, let it rain!

FYI: this really is a rain coat (with built in pack cover) and NOT a traditional poncho. Several people have advised me to not get a poncho (due to wind). For more information on this poncho, see my previous post or drop me a note. Did I mention how quickly it arrived? Ordered it from Spain on Sunday and had it in New Mexico by noon on Wednesday!

They thoughtfully included a cherry lollipop in the mailing! 8-)

On my weekend jaunt to Phoenix (to attend the delightful Arizona Renaissance Festival) I found time to go shopping with my aspiring Eagle-Scout grandson. He acted as my consultant on this shopping-expedition.

We researched the inventory of a few sporting goods stores looking for just the right woman's sleeping bag weighing in under 2 pounds and rated around 25 degrees F. We happily found a wonderful Kelty which I had read about online. It was on sale too.

At the last moment, I asked the clerk if he had a regular instead of a tall (shaving off a few more ounces from the weight). He went in the back room and reappeared moments later, with my requested item and a big grin on his face: this bag was reduced even further! I paid about $80 - well under the prices I saw on Google shopper and E-Bay.

This bag has a clever zipper at the bottom which allows me to let my feet breathe a bit. I actually waddled around with it on. I looked a bit like a penguin. Miss Zia, my pup, was pretty puzzled by my strange antics. I almost fell over from laughing at her funny facial expressions as she cocked her head from one side to the other and furrowed her sweet brow.

Besides its entertainment value, I think this sleeping bag will be just right for my Camino experience.

So my gear collection is growing. I will board the aircraft and fly off to Madrid in about eight weeks...That old Carly Simon tune (Anticipation) is running through my head as I anticipate the big adventure ahead.

More later...too much to do at the office these days...sigh. But life is good...

The Rain in Spain...

The rain in Spain falls mainly - in Spring.


Long ago, I lived on the dry plains in central Spain and have dealt with the infamous rain alluded to in the "My Fair Lady" tune everyone seems to know. But frankly the thought of slogging through the cold, driving rains of northern Spain puts a bit of a damper (yikes, baaaaad pun) on my pleasure in walking the pilgrimage to Santiago. In northern Spain, Galicia in particular, it rains frequently. I get cold just thinking of walking in a downpour actually.


Of course the old adage (April showers bring May flowers) will lighten my step. I anticipate seeing beautiful and bounteous blossoms blanketing the hills, dales and mountainsides. I will be happily slogging through the mud snapping photos of the glorious green and the riot of colors. How well I remember the hillsides covered with stunning red poppies. The countryside in Spring is like a Monet painting or a colorful Picasso canvas. I will hardly mind the cold, rain and mud.


In fact I may almost blend in with those brilliant scarlet poppies. Why? because one more decision has been made and one more step taken: my sweet and generous spouse went online and kindly ordered me a wonderful piece of rain gear to keep me warm and dry as I make my trek. This clever rain coat (see the photo above - but mine is an outrageous poppy RED!) goes over the backpack to keep everything dry. It is an Altus poncho and comes highly recommended among pilgrim experts who have been guiding me through through ropes.


The poncho weighs about a pound, but it is both a pack cover and a jacket. It converts for use with or without the backpack too. It has a full zipper and that appeals to me - many others I looked at must go over the head. The zipper improves ventilation too. I can think of ways to use it for other purposes too.


So in a week to ten days my red rain gear should arrive. And of course I will put it on over my backpack and walk the dog. I imagine our rural neighbors will be puzzled or amused when they look out their windows and see the odd, red, hunchbacked figure loping happily along behind the 3-legged dog!


One more decision down (thanks to my spouse!). Bring on those April showers! 8-)


Life is good...